Guinea Pig Care Info

Lifespan: 4 - 8 years

Guinea pigs make great companions due to their docile nature and willingness to be handled. Since they are prey animals, they startle very easily. This means they may not make ideal pets for young children. Guinea Pigs usually do not like to be lifted into the air- when you are picking them up, make sure to support their entire body  and hold them close to you to help make them feel more secure.

Guinea pigs can be quite vocal, they are very good at letting you know how they feel! Wheeking is the classic guinea pig squeal, to let you know that they really want something you have. Chutting is the clucking sound they make when they are extremely happy.

Guinea pigs are group animals, which means they prefer to live with other guinea pigs in groups of 2 or more. Most guinea pigs get along well together, although there will always be some that don't. Guinea Pigs who are being introduced to each other need to be carefully monitored to ensure they won’t fight. The most compatible pairings are two female guinea pigs, or one male and one female (after one or both has been spayed/neutered). Two males may be able to be housed together, but they are more prone to fighting. Two guinea pigs who will not get along must be kept in separate enclosures so they don’t hurt each other.

Housing: Guinea Pigs may be shaped like potatoes, but they like to move and groove! Commercially available cages from pet stores are NOT appropriate for housing adult guinea pigs. They are not big enough to fulfill their roaming needs. Larger enclosures can be purchased online or homemade, and should be 4ftx2ft or larger. Guinea Pigs benefit from having multiple places to hide, so they can relax out of sight or hide if they get scared. Fresh water in a dish or a sipper bottle must always be available, and should be cleaned daily. Wire bottomed flooring can lead to foot sores or limbs getting caught, so they should be avoided or covered up appropriately. Fleece blankets make for good cage lining. Carefresh or paper bedding is also appropriate for Guinea Pigs. Wood shavings should be avoided, as they are more likely to contribute to respiratory infections. Cedar shavings are very toxic and must never be used. Guinea Pigs are very temperature sensitive, so be sure that wherever their pen is located in your house is away from drafts and hot spots.

Your Guinea Pig's cage should be deep cleaned at least once a week, with spot cleanings done daily. Spot cleaning is removing the soiled bedding and droppings from the cage. If using a litter box, it should be spot cleaned daily as well. When cleaning their cage, you should start by changing and replacing all soiled bedding/shavings in the cage. Wash your Guinea Pig's cage with a warm water and unscented antibacterial soap mixture to kill any bacterial buildup. Make sure to rinse all surfaces thoroughly to be sure all the soap has rinsed away. Do not use any harsh kitchen or bathroom cleaners, and stay away from bleach since these are all toxic to your pig. As you are cleaning, you can also wash the other items that are kept in the cage and use this as an opportunity for exercise outside of the cage.

Nutrition:  The Guinea Pig diet is broken down into hay, pellets, leafy greens, and Vitamin C supplements.

Guinea Pigs should always have access to unlimited Timothy or Meadow Hay. This makes up the bulk of their diet. Hay is important for maintaining their gut microbiome, and for keeping their teeth nicely filed. Their hay should be replaced daily.

A high quality Guinea Pig specific timothy pellet will help ensure they are getting their micronutrients. Make sure that the brand you are buying contains pellets only- some mixed will come with seeds or dried fruit, which are not acceptable food for pigs, as they can contribute to dental disease and obesity. We recommend Oxbow brand pellets. Feed ⅛-¼ cup of pellets per pig per day.

Fresh leafy greens should be offered daily, at 1-2 handfuls per pig. These can be lettuces like romaine, and green or red leaf, flat leaf parsley and cilantro. Iceberg lettuce should not be given to pigs, as it has very low nutritional value and high water content, which can cause diarrhea. Greens that are high in calcium should be avoided or offered no more than once a week in small quantities- these are kale, collard greens, spinach, and chard. Vegetables should be fed in smaller quantities as a treat only, as they can cause gastrointestinal bloating if fed too often. Fruit should be avoided as it is very high in sugar, which can contribute to dental disease and gut microbiome imbalances.

Guinea pigs should never be fed seeds, dried fruits, or yogurt treats. Many pet store treat mixes will include mixes of these items, and should not be purchased. Look for treats that are timothy hay based instead.

Since Guinea Pigs are unable to produce their own Vitamin C, we need to give it to them as a supplement. Pellet diets will include Vitamin C, but may not contain high enough amounts- piggies need 100mg of Vitamin C per day. Getting a Vitamin C supplement in a biscuit form is best. We trust the Oxbow Vitamin C supplement biscuits. Liquid or water additive supplements should be avoided, as Vitamin C degrades very quickly, and there is no guarantee that your pig will get the amount they need from it.

Health Concerns: Common health problems that we see with Guinea Pigs are foot troubles, dental disease, skin problems, reproductive concerns, respiratory issues, and urinary problems.

Checking your pig’s feet regularly is important, as you will be able to see if their nails are overgrown or if they are starting to develop pododermatitis. Nail trims are usually necessary ever 4-6 weeks, but will depend on your pets lifestyle. Overgrown nails can grown into paw pads or make it difficult or painful for your pig to get around their cage. Pododermatitis (also known as bumblefoot) starts as red spots on the bottoms of the feet, and can progress to very painful open sores. This is usually from living on surfaces that are too hard (or wire cage bottoms), or will develop secondary to a pig who is ill and not moving around. These sores can easily get infected, and should be seen and managed by your veterinarian.

Dental disease is unfortunately very common in pigs. They have a special kind of teeth called hypsodont teeth- this means that their teeth grow constantly. Usually their teeth are ground down by eating hay, but some require tooth trims. When their teeth get too long, it gets very difficult and eventually impossible for them to eat. These overgrown teeth need to be trimmed by an experienced Guinea Pig veterinarian.

Skin issues can present as extreme itchiness, hair loss, redness, and scabbing. Common causes can be lice, mites, ringworm, fleas, and bacterial infection.

Some reproductive issues that Guinea Pigs can develop are ovarian cysts and pregnancy. Ovarian cysts present as a swollen abdomen, weight loss, and symmetrical hair loss on the pig’s sides. Pregnancy can be very dangerous for pigs, and there is a high maternal mortality rate. It can be difficult for pet stores to properly sex young guinea pigs, so getting them properly sexed at the veterinarian before cohabitating can help prevent unwanted pregnancy.

Guinea Pigs have a very sensitive respiratory tract, and can be prone to infection. Signs of this are coughing, sneezing, wheezing, clicking sounds when breathing, and nasal discharge. Pigs can be very good at hiding when they are not feeling well, and clean themselves often. Check the inside of your pigs wrists for any crusting, as they will quickly wipe away nasal discharge that way. Keeping your pig’s enclosure clean and avoiding heavily scented products can help prevent respiratory issues.

Urinary problems can present as abnormally coloured urine, typically red or brown. This could be from a UTI, from uterine problems, or from a bladder stone. If your pig is having difficulty urinating, contact your veterinarian immediately.

Rachel Hiebert, RVT